J. Basic. Appl. Sci. Res., 7(12)26-34, 2017 | ISSN 2090-4304 |
© 2017, TextRoad Publication | Journal of Basic and Applied Scientific Research |
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Nesreen Nasr Eldeen Hassan
PhD, Assistant Professor, Faculty of Applied Arts, Apparel Department Helwan University, Egypt
Received: August 8, 2017 Accepted: October29, 2017
ABSTRACT
Dry Cleaning implies cleaning process for clothing and textiles utilizing distinctive solvents other than water. It is utilized to clean fabrics that degrade in the washing machine, and sensitive fabrics that can't withstand the rough and tumble of a washing machine and clothes dryer. It can eliminate labor-intensive hand washing.
In this study four different seam types were used, 100% Polyester fabric (basic fabric) sewed to 100% Polyester fabric (lining fabric) after adhesive the interfacing. Seam1 is a superimposed seam type (SSa) by using stitch type 301 Lock stitch. Seam2 is a superimposed seam type (SSj) and adding tape to the fabric by using stitch type 301 Lock stitch. Seam3 is a lapped seam type (LSb) which done by two steps using stitch type 301 Lock stitch. Seam4 is a lapped seam type (LSb) which done by two steps using stitch type 301 Lock stitch and Stitch type 304 Zigzag stitch. All the samples were washed using semi-auto dry cleaning machine. The cleaning process was repeated once, 5 times and 10 times. Four tests were applied. Fabric mass per unit area, seam stiffness, seam breaking force and Seam pucker has been evaluated according to standard methods and took place into the conditioned atmosphere of 21ºC and 65% RH. Comparisons have been made among the samples to investigate the impact of repeated dry cleaning process on the sewability of jacket lining, and choose the best seam types that give the high quality, maintained the characteristics and the durability of the lining fabric when exposed to the repeated dry cleaning process. KEYWORDS: Dry cleaning process, Solvents, lining fabric.
Dry cleaning is not a 'dry' process, not at all, like what its name suggests. Garments are soaked in a dissolvable other than water. Tetrachloroethylene (perchloroethylene), which is called "Perc," is the most used dissolvable. Other kinds of solvents are trichloroethane and petroleum spirits. (1) Dry cleaning can be questioned in light of the fact that it utilizes chlorocarbons, which are of worry for their potential poisonous quality and ecological effect.(2) It can also adversely affects the clothing by putting different solvents on their surface and affects their properties and sewability especially when the dry cleaning process is repeated.
Generally, the dry cleaning procedure can be summarized into five stages (3):
1.1.2. Solvents used in dry cleaning process Perchloroethylene: (Perc, or tetrachloroethylene) has been being used since the 1930s. Perc is the most widely recognized solvent, the "standard" for cleaning performance. (5)
It is the best cleaning solvent. It is thermally steady, recyclable, and low danger. It can causes color bleeding/loss, particularly at higher temperatures. In different cases, it might harm unique trims, buttons, and beads on some garments. The toxicity of Perc "is moderate to low" and "Reports of human injury are uncommon despite its wide usage in dry cleaning and degreasing". (6)
*Corresponding Author: Nesreen Nasr Eldeen Hassan, PhD., Assistant Professor, Faculty of Applied Arts, Apparel Department Helwan University, Egypt.
Hydrocarbons: These oil-based solvents are less rough in addition less useful than Perc. Although flammable, danger of flame or blast can be limited when utilized legitimately. Hydrocarbons are however poisons. Hydrocarbons hold around 10-12% of the market. Trichloroethane: is rougher than Perc, yet is utilized as a part of around 10-15% of the market. (7) Supercritical CO2: Represents a contrasting option to Perc, in any case, it is the second rate in evacuating a few types of grime. Added substance surfactants enhance the viability of CO2. Carbon dioxide is totally nontoxic. The ozone depleting substance potential is likewise lower than that of numerous organic solvents. Supercritical CO2 is, in general, a mellow solvent that brings down its capacity to forcefully assault stains. (8) Furthermore, apparatus for utilization of supercritical CO2 is more costly than a Perc machine, making moderateness troublesome for private companies. A few cleaners with these machines keep conventional machines nearby for the heavier ruined textiles maintainable, yet others observe plant enzymes to be similarly successful and even more ecologically. (9)
Lining fabric is different yet appended an inner layer of fabric structure, which hides or covers within garment structure. A garment lining is, for the most part, referred to and considered as a "supportive” fabric. (10)
A lining eliminates the need for time-consuming seam finishes and reduces "wear and tear" on the inside garment construction. It will lengthen the life and durability of a garment. A lining provides some body and support to a garment, but it never takes the place of interfacing. It often makes the garment easier to wear over other clothing as in a jacket or coat; it can eliminate the need for some undergarments such as a slip as in a dress or skirt. (11)
1.2.3. The used type of lining fabric Polyester: offers a lot of assortment regarding weight, softness, solace, and low cost. A wide assortment of hues and prints are accessible. These fibers are wrinkle safe and time resistant. They are for the most part washable, yet can likewise be dry-cleaned. (12)
When selecting fabrics and constructing the garment keep in mind that. A good lining is :
The used fabric is 100% Polyester fabric that examined as a basic fabric. The following table1 illustrates the specifications of the basic tested fabric.
Table1 Basic fabric specifications
Fabric type | Fabric structure | Yarn warp/cm | Yarn weft/cm | Mass (gm/m2) | Thickness (mm) |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
100% Polyester fabric | plain 1/1 | 24 | 20 | 188 + 5 | 0.45 |
One woven interfacing fabric plain 1/1 was examined. The following table2 illustrates the specifications of the interfacing tested fabric.
J. Basic. Appl. Sci. Res., 7(12)26-34, 2017
Table2 Interfacing fabric specifications
Fabric type | Yarn warp/cm | Yarn weft /cm | Mass (gm/m2) | Thickness (mm) |
---|---|---|---|---|
Woven interfacing fabric plain 1/1 | 9 | 13 | 43 + 5 | 0.31 |
100 % Polyester fabric was used and examined as a lining fabric. The following table3 illustrates the specifications of the lining tested fabric.
Table3 Lining fabric specifications
Fabric type | Fabric structure | Yarn warp/cm | Yarn weft/cm | Mass(gm/m2) | Thickness(mm) |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
100% Polyester fabric | plain 1/1 | 42 | 26 | 32 + 5 | 0.11 |
The woven interfacing fabric was adhesive to the basic fabric. All of the factors affecting the quality of the adhesive were installed when pasting the interfacing fabric. The following table4 illustrates the specifications of the adhesive process
Table4 Specifications of the adhesive process
Press name | Press type | Model no. | Working Area | Temp. | Power supply |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Industrial press thermo adhesive I.P.T. | Manual | 900 | 40 x 90 cm | 90º | 2250 Watt, 220 Volt |
Four different seam types that are commonly used for sewing jacket lining were used to sew the basic fabric to the lining fabric after adhesive the interfacing. Seam1 is a superimposed seam type (SSa) by using stitch type 301 Lock stitch. Seam2 is a superimposed seam type (SSj) and adding tape to the fabric by using stitch type 301 Lock stitch. Seam3 is a lapped seam type (LSb) which done by two steps using stitch type 301 Lock stitch. Seam4 is a lapped seam type (LSb) which done by two steps using stitch type 301 Lock stitch and Stitch type 304 Zigzag stitch. The used machine is a Mitsubishi sewing machine model LS2-1150, 220 volts, with 5000 stitches per min and intermediate foot pressure. Table5 illustrates the sewing specifications of four-seam types.
Table5 Sewing specifications of four-seam types
Seam No. | Seam type | Thread type | Thread size | Needle size | Stitch type | Stitch density/cm |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Seam1 | Superimposed | 100% spun polyester | Ne 42/2 | 16 | Lock stitch 301 | 4 |
Seam2 | Superimposed | 100% spun polyester | Ne 42/2 | 16 | Lock stitch 301, by adding tape to the fabric | 4 |
Seam3 | Lapped seam | 100% spun polyester | Ne 42/2 | 16 | Lock stitch 301 | 4 |
Seam4 | Lapped seam | 100% spun polyester | Ne 42/2 | 16 | Lock stitch 301& Zigzag stitch 304 | 4&3 |
All the samples were washed using semi-auto dry cleaning machine with PERC solvent. The cleaning process was repeated once, 5 times and 10 times. The following table 6 illustrates specifications of the dry cleaning process.
Table 6 Specifications of the dry cleaning process
Machine | Brand name | Model no. | Detergent | Temp. | Time |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
semi auto dry cleaning machine | Aozhi | GX-6 | Perchloroethylene solvent | 25º | 10 min. |
Tested samples examined before and after repeating the dry cleaning process once, 5 times and 10 times. Fabric mass per unit area, which was determined using an electronic balance. (14) Seam stiffness test obtained by using Shirley seam stiffness tester. (15) Seam breaking force was carried out (16). Seam pucker has been evaluated. (17) Average of three readings have been gotten for every property.
Table7 and fig.1 illustrate the impact of repeated dry cleaning process on fabric mass
Table7 Impact of repeated the dry cleaning process on fabric mass
Fig.1. Impact of repeated dry cleaning process on fabric mass
J. Basic. Appl. Sci. Res., 7(12)26-34, 2017
Table8 and fig.2 illustrate the impact of repeated the dry cleaning process on seam stiffness
Table8 Impact of repeated the dry cleaning process on seam stiffness
Fig.2. Impact of repeated the dry cleaning process on seam stiffness
Table9 and fig.3 illustrate the impact of repeated dry cleaning process on seam breaking force
Table9 Impact of repeated dry cleaning process on seam breaking force
Fig.3. Impact of repeated dry cleaning process on seam breaking force
• As shown in table9 and fig.3 which illustrate the impact of repeated the dry cleaning process on seam breaking force. It can be seen that seam2 gives the least seam breaking force then seam1 then seam4 while seam3 gives the highest value. Seam breaking force increases by using the more consisted thread as in seam3 and seam4. Seam3 sewed with lockstitch 301in two steps, this stitch is
J. Basic. Appl. Sci. Res., 7(12)26-34, 2017
very stiffer than zigzag stitch 304 that sewed in seam4 so that leads to increasing the seam breaking force in this seam.
Table10 and fig.4 illustrate the impact of repeated dry cleaning process on seam pucker
Table10 Impact of repeated dry cleaning process on seam pucker
Fig.4. Impact of repeated dry cleaning process on seam pucker
CONCLUSIONS
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J. Basic. Appl. Sci. Res., 7(12)26-34, 2017
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